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‘The Making of Oscar’
Unpacking the craft behind our
signature loafer
Words: Adjoa Gharban
Images: Rita Lino
For Pre Fall ‘23 we look to the past to inspire our new signature loafer, Oscar. Constructed around a wooden last found in the archives of our factory in Italy, the design of the loafer reimagines a 1960s silhouette, resulting in a shoe that embodies both a classic and contemporary look. To celebrate its release, we returned to the factory with photographer and longstanding collaborator Rita Lino to document the making of Oscar.
For Pre Fall ‘23 we look to the past to inspire our new signature loafer, Oscar. Constructed around a wooden last found in the archives of our factory in Italy, the design of the loafer reimagines a 1960s silhouette, resulting in a shoe that embodies both a classic and contemporary look. To celebrate its release, we returned to the factory with photographer and longstanding collaborator Rita Lino to document the making of Oscar.
The process behind creating Oscar demonstrates a dedication to craftsmanship. We work with a small number of family-run factories in the Tuscan region that have specialized in shoemaking for generations. Every detail behind the crafting of the loafer has been meticulously considered, from the creativity of the design to the responsible sourcing of materials—we only use leathers that are byproducts from the food industry and source them from their countries of origin via a select network of local suppliers in Europe. Our heritage, inspirations and influences are all reflected in the craftsmanship of Oscar. Its refined design and vintage origins are reminders of what can happen when the past informs the present effectively. 
The foundation of the shoe is built on a wooden last found in our archives. On our recent trip to the factory, we witnessed the expertise of our shoemakers in real time, who begin by drawing directly onto the last to define cut and proportion. Once the shape is designed, the pattern is hand cut—first in paper, then in leather. The upper part of the shoe is then attached to the insole, stitching its welt to the upper and completing everything with a sole and heel. The final step is the removal from the wooden last the shoe is built around, further highlighting its significance in the construction of Oscar. 
A last is a mechanical form shaped like a foot. It is used by shoemakers and cordwainers in the manufacture and repair of shoes. Custom-made lasts are used in the making of bespoke footwear.
Widely acknowledged as a staple of the modern wardrobe, the popularity of the loafer plays out across workwear and off-duty spaces—marrying form with function. Sleek yet androgynous shapes currently dominate loafer styles, making the smooth calf leather, almond toe and custom components of Oscar enduringly appealing.
The Oscar loafer is available on aeyde.com as part of our Pre Fall ‘23 Kollektion.

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